People watching on the beach in Noordwijk

Nicole van der Jagt - August 15, 2026

I went to Noordwijk for the sea. In the end, I mainly looked at the people.

That might sound strange. But there is something about a North Sea beach on an ordinary day. It is wide, it is grey-blue, and nothing really happens. That is precisely why you see everything.

Arriving around noon. We arrived at Huis ter Duin around twelve. The hotel stands on top of the dune ridge, on the Koningin Wilhelmina Boulevard, and that is the whole story in one sentence. You step out of the car and immediately look out over the beach.

To be honest, I had my doubts about such a large, classic hotel. I thought it would be stuffy. That wasn't the case. In the lobby, day-trippers stopping for coffee walk right through guests who have just come from the beach.

From our room, I looked down at the grass next to the boulevard. There stands a chess set with pieces up to your waist. A father and a son of about seven were playing a game. The boy's scooter lay on the path, exactly where he had dropped it.

Tip: the hotel has its own parking. That helps, because the spots on the boulevard are paid and fill up quickly during the high season.

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The afternoon beach at Beneden was already busy. Windbreaks, parasols, cool boxes. At the beach club beds, every spot had a number on the screen.

Next to us, a woman was lying in a beach chair studying. Anatomy and physiology, with earbuds in and a marker in her hand. On the sunbed next to her, someone was sleeping with headphones on. The same meter of beach, two completely different afternoons.

Further on, a little boy in a green football shirt and a cap sat digging in the sand by himself. His parents lay twenty meters behind him, half-asleep. He needed nothing.

What struck me was the logic of the seating arrangement. Families sit close to the entrance. Couples walk on. Groups of young people walk the furthest. No one plans this, and yet it works every time. Tip: at most clubs, you rent a sunbed with a sunshade by the day. On weekends, they are already taken around midday.

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The beach pavilions Noordwijk have a long row, and they differ considerably. Some are set up for a long afternoon with white wine. Others mainly sell fries and are honest about it.

By one of the tents, a wooden swing stands in the sand, made of thick poles with chains. Two girls of about thirteen were using it. Behind them, the entire terrace was filled with adults having coffee. The swing is clearly intended for children and is clearly being used by everyone.

We had a late lunch with a view. From a terrace like that, you see things differently. You see people arriving, hesitating about a spot, moving, hesitating again. It is unpretentious theater, and it lasts all day.

Tip: most pavilions are open from spring into autumn. Nowadays, a number of them operate all year round. Making a reservation is highly recommended in the summer, especially on weekends.

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At the waterline. The North Sea is cold. Everyone knows that, and yet there is always someone standing in it up to their knees.

It is mostly shuffling. A small group stops where the water is just not too high. Someone bends down to pick something up. Children run forward and then back again.

Further along, a woman sat alone in the sand, with her bag beside her and her shoes off. She stared at the sea for half an hour without doing anything. That is perhaps the most common activity on this beach.

Tip: pay attention to the flags at the lifeguard station. Swimming is not recommended in strong offshore winds, no matter how calm the water looks.

The golden hour . Around seven, the beach emptied. Not all at once, but in waves. First the families, with sand in everything. Then the day-trippers.

What remains is more beautiful. Two men sat talking on a swing bench in front of a pavilion, with a can of beer and their backs to the terrace. At the tables on the edge, a couple sat looking at the water, two glasses between them, few words. At the table next to them, a woman held her gin tonic up to the sea and laughed at something I didn't hear.

And at the very end, one silhouette stood in the low light. A figure at the waterline, a seagull a few meters away, and nothing else.

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The next morning The morning belongs to a completely different group of people.

From the room, I saw a line of bathrobes walking across the empty beach towards the sea. Six people heading for the water, with long shadows trailing behind them. I watched them longer than necessary.

Down below, it was quiet. An older man stood alone photographing the sea, right in the middle of an empty beach. Further along, two women sat side by side on their walkers, both facing the water, talking without looking at each other.

No one did anything special. I found that more beautiful than I had expected.

Tip: dogs are allowed off-leash on the beach outside of the high season. During the summer months, more limited times apply. Check with the municipality before you go.

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Going home. We left in the afternoon. That turned out to be the right moment. By then, the beach was full again with people who had just started their day, and we had already had ours. Practical.

Noordwijk is just over half an hour by car from Amsterdam and The Hague. Getting there by public transport is more difficult: there is no station; you take the bus from Leiden Central.

One night is enough, but make sure it is a full one. Arriving around midday and not leaving until late the next day gives you two completely different beaches.

Go outside the high season if you are looking for peace and quiet. September is the best month as far as I'm concerned. The water is at its warmest then, and the beach is largely empty.

And bring something warm. Even in July.