Madrid: a city you get to know slowly

Nicole van der Jagt – June 21, 2026

Arrival in the heat

Thirty-nine degrees. That was the first thing I noticed when I walked into the city, even before I had properly reached my hotel. The heat hung heavy between the buildings, and yet the terraces remained full, as if no one cared. I adjusted my pace immediately, walked slower, and sought out the shady side of the street. Madrid therefore calls for a different rhythm at these temperatures—a calmer one, with plenty of breaks—and I actually quite liked that.

The palace and Campo del Moro

At the Palacio Real, the heat felt even more intense, as if the light stone of the square was reflecting the sun. Coincidentally, my visit coincided with International Yoga Day, and mats were rolled out all over the square in front of the palace, dozens of people doing exercises together with that impressive building in the background. An unexpectedly peaceful scene, amidst the heat and the crowds of tourists with cameras. I walked on to Campo del Moro, the large park located behind the palace, and there everything changed. Under the trees, it was suddenly a few degrees cooler, and the paths felt quiet after the hustle and bustle around the palace itself. I took the time to sit down for a moment, have a drink, and simply look out over the greenery with the palace in the background. A nice breather in the middle of a hot day full of walking.

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From Plaza Mayor to Plaza de España

From the palace, I walked on to Plaza Mayor, busy and lively, with the characteristic arcades surrounding the square. Right next to the square, I entered the covered market, cool and shady after all those hours in the sun, with stalls full of tapas, fresh fish, and chilled wine. Exactly the place to catch your breath and enjoy the local food at the same time. Afterwards, I headed towards Plaza de España, and along the way, the heat had by now become a constant companion. At the square itself, with the famous statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, it was clearly a place where both tourists and locals gather. Nearby, I visited the Temple of Debod, the Egyptian monument that once came to Madrid as a gift. A surprising sight, actually, an ancient Egyptian temple in the middle of a Spanish capital, and precisely because of the heat, the stone of the temple seemed to glow even hotter than usual. Finally, I walked back past Plaza de España one more time before ending the day, tired but satisfied with all the walking.

The people of Madrid

What perhaps stuck with me the most was how many different lives simply exist side by side here. On the terrace next to me sat older men who had been taking hours to finish the same beer, engrossed in conversation and clearly regulars. A few tables away, a group of young Madrilenians pulled up a chair, just finished work, laughing loudly and clearly not planning on going home before midnight. In the park, I saw grandparents with grandchildren alongside joggers and skaters, and in the Plaza Mayor, tourists with maps stood next to street musicians who had been playing there for years. No one seemed to mind anyone else. That mix of generations, backgrounds, and paces, all in the same place at the same time, gave me the feeling that this city leaves room for everyone. That, I think, is exactly what makes Madrid so easy to fit into as a visitor.

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Practical tip

If you go in the summer, seriously take into account temperatures approaching forty degrees. Plan your walks for the morning or late afternoon, seek shade or a park in between, and bring more water than you think you will need. The metro network is extensive and relatively inexpensive, and especially in this heat, it is a nice alternative to walking long distances. Restaurants open later than you are used to; making reservations after 8:30 p.m. is very common. For major attractions such as the palace, it pays to arrange tickets online in advance, especially during the high season.